Jewelry Gemstone Insiders Guide

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I have been receiving so many emails and messages regarding Maker's Marks and just what they mean that I had to write this post to explain it.

I have also included a short Video presentation - not from me, or anyone associated with our company - but from a small manufacturer in Texas. Hopefully it will explain in graphic detail, just how hard the Maker's Mark problem really is, and just why it's so easy for anyone in the world, to stamp their jewelry with anything they want.

But first - here is a recent question typical of the problem...

MARK ON GOLD RING Question:

I recently bought a sapphire ring with the mark "CH" near the 14K mark.

Do you know who/what this could be? OR, where I could find out?

Many thanks.

Laurie

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Here is my Answer followed by the Video...

Answer: G'day Laurie and many thanks for your query.

There is no central registry of Maker's Marks nor is there any legislation to force manufactures to comply to a regulated index of marks.

As you can imagine with the world largest jewelry manufacturing base being China and South East Asia - there is absolutly no way of expecting makers there to even care about registering their marks for the American, British or European markets.

It is simply their Identification stamp and it could be anyone. A good Video example of this (or Bad) can be found on our forum.

You might also like to add this query to my Jewelry Forum at http://www.online-jewelry-appraisals.net/jewelry-forum/ as other may have had a similar problem.

Can't hurt anyway and who knows what answers you may get.

Hope this helps...

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Here's the Video showing just how easy it is for ANYONE ANYWHERE to stamp their Jewelry...

Hope this helps...

Tags: graphic detail, jewelry appraisals, largest jewelry, s marks, south east asia

Fob Watch gold hallmark year letters Question: I have a fob watch which I'm trying to date?

It's by Charles E Rose.

The marks inside are as follows:

• a diamond with Capitals JR we think is maker?
• then four symbols.. to the left an anchor (Birmingham?) to the top a crown?
• below 18 (18k gold?) and to the right a shield is either oval or rectangle with corners rounded.
• inside is a letter y.

The letter is lowercase and the tail of the y' curves from left to right and up slightly. The top 'forks ' of the y bend over to the left. We think its either 1898 or 1847 ?

Can you tell me which one or are we completely wrong?

Answer: Hi - Ann here, and many thanks for your query - and your patience.

The first thing you should realize is that the watch and the watch CASE could have been made by different people. As you say the watch is marked (on the face) Charles E Rose, while the case may have been made years before, in a different manufacturing base, in a different country by JR.

However tracking down Maker's Marks are the hardest part of any Hallmark as there is no central world registry of Maker's Marks.

The Anchor is the Assay office which you have rightfully identified as Birmingham while the Crown is the stamp signifying or guaranteeing quality - in this case 18ct gold.

So that leaves use with the SHAPE of the Stamp and the font used - in this case you say it is lowercase but your description of (italic) the letter could be misleading as I can't see it. Is it Old English for example?

The 1847 mark has cross lines through the body of the 'y' while the 1898 does not, plus the tail is as you described. The 1847 tail dips down at the end - so I would have to suggest the 1898 as being the correct date, as both stamps are similar being square with the corners cut off.

I don't know what you mean when you say 'shield is either oval or rectangle with corners rounded' as it can't be a Shield Shape nor can it be Oval?

If you don't own a Hallmarking book it is a great investment.

Hope you find this information useful.

Tags: assay office, cross lines, s marks, shield shape, year letters

14K B

Question: Hi ,David:

A lady asked another expert a question about what 14K B was. But I think they were not available at this time, so I seek help from you.

I also have the same experience like that lady.

My father in law gave me this silver like necklace which was clearly marked 14K B and not 14k P.

I thought it was 14K brass or something. Could you please tell me what exactly metal it is?

Answer:

G'day and many thanks for your query

Not much to go on for maker's marks but I suspect the item is simply marked with a 'B' for 'Base Metal'

Naturally I can't see, feel, weigh, test ot touch the item, but I have come across this myself over the past 35 years in the business.

It may be 14 Karat gold plated over a Base metal. Try a child's magnet and see if it jumps onto the magnet.

This test is NOT absolute of course, because it could be copper underneath - which is also NON MAGNETIC. But if it does react - it certainly isn't gold.

There are some great gold testing methods explained at the Antique 20th Century Jewelry site or you might like to try the Jewelry Hints Tips and Reviews Blog for poible answers. They are a fairly new site but seem to be getting a bit of a reputation on the web.

Hope this helps.

Tags: 20th century jewelry, karat gold, many thanks, s marks, web hope

There are more and more questions coming with regard Hallmarks as it seems to be a major confusion for people. Here is a typical example on a Gold Bangle

QUESTION..?

Good morning. I have recently seen a piece (locking bangle) with the marks "pat.jan08" on one side of the hinge and "JM or JMT & CO." on the other side of the hinge. very tiny.

I cannot find anything on the net about these hallmarks.

The piece appears to be gold and has 3 pinkish, red stones set in the top of the bangle. The piece does not seem solid. but I am 99% sure it is gold.

Any information on this piece would be greatly appreciated.

Thankyou for your time and expertise.

ANSWER..!

You didn't say where you live, so I'm going to assume it's the States?

You also didn't say if this was a new item or an estate item, but again, I am going to assume it is at least secondhand if not Vintage.

Hinged Bangles are generally hollow and to increase the 'Apparent' weight - are filled with jewelers wax to make them appear heavy. There's a great article about this on the 20th Century Antique Jewelry Website.

The marks (stamped or engraved?) could simply be as a ID or gift mark for 'Pat' whose Birthday or Anniversary was January 8th?

The other Marks would be the Manufacture or Maker's Marks but the only JM would be for John Moore of Dublin - many years ago in the 18th Century.

So you see why it is important to know how old - AND - where you live or purchased the item. The History is always a great clue when we try to track down an item's past.

The gems are possibly garnets or garnet doublets, but without seeing them and testing..? Maybe pink sapphire? - They are Not just blue.

You need to take the item to a qualified appraiser and have them do a full (expensive) report on it. That's the only way you will know for sure.

Hope this helps.

Tags: antique jewelry, apparent weight, gold bangle, jewelry website, s marks

Jewelry Maker's Marks are the hardest to find as you will see from this recent query I had.

QUESTION..? I HAVE AN OLD LINK STYLE SHAMROCK BRACELET MARKED 14K...C+B...I ASSUME C+B IS A MAKERS MARK BUT I CAN FIND NO INFORMATION ON THIS MAKER ANYWHERE! PLEASE HELP!

ANSWER..! You are correct in saying the 14K (NOT a British Hallmark) is for 14 carat gold and the CB is as you suggested a Makers or design mark.

However; after date letter hallmarks, Maker's Marks are the Hardest to get classified as anyone can make jewelry, and any country can produce jewelry without complying to any register.

This makes the NON-FAMOUS jewelers out there, almost impossible to find.

You might (if you have a lot of time available) like to browse one of my favorite websites at this address: http://home.wxs.nl/~luijt005/hallm.htm or you might like to slip over to Antique Jewelry of the 20th Century at: http://www.jewellery-antiques.com where you can sign up for a bonus Hallmarking 4 part email course.

Even though it's for British Hallmarks, I'm sure you will learn a great deal from it.

Tags: 14 carat gold, british hallmarks, hallm, jewelry maker, s marks